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Sean Michael Visits Leipzig

Ed. note: last month, Sean Michael Jackman, our Director of Worship and Music, visited Leipzig, Germany for Bachfest as part of his professional development. What follows is a summary of his trip.


Our trip to Germany was made possible, in part, with funds from my professional development allowance at St. John. I am so thankful for this experience.

 

We experienced world-class music in historic settings. Bachfest is one of the premier music festivals worldwide and attracts musicians and music lovers from around the globe. It has been ongoing since 1950 (the year which marked the two hundredth anniversary of the composer’s death).

 

These accounts are only highlights - maybe highlights of highlights. I found that each day required time and energy to digest all that had happened.

 

Day 1. Tuesday, June 17, 2025.

We decided to explore around our hotel upon arriving in Leipzig. I knew we were close to Bach’s church (his last post and where he is buried), Thomaskirche (St.  Thomas Church). I never realized we would pass by this famous statue on our way to get coffee. I almost jumped when I turned the corner and there it was! Robert said I almost banged into someone getting my first picture. By the time we took the photo below, I had calmed down.


SMJ with JSB!
SMJ with JSB!

Day 2.  Wednesday, June 18, 2025.

St. Peter’s Church. 

B Minor Mass re-imagined.

 

There were five to six events daily. The theme of the Bachfest this year was Transformations. There was an emphasis on considering, studying, and presenting Bach in different ways to new audiences. 

 

A highlight of this day was a “cliff’s notes” version of Bach colossal B Minor Mass, BWV 232  for chorus, orchestra and soloists. The original is two hours long and requires huge resources.

 

The arranger had reduced the work to a manageable performance of about an hour for a medium sized choir and small orchestra. Some of the music was replaced with spoken text. 


Peterskirche (St. Peter’s Church)
Peterskirche (St. Peter’s Church)

Day 3. Thursday, June 19, 2025. 

 

The highlight of this day was at the end - with an amazing concert led by Koopman at Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas Church)! Bach also worked here. Audio and videotaping is prohibited so I was careful about having phones out during the performances. Koopman, now 80, is founder and conductor of the lauded Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra & Choir, has toured worldwide and recorded the entire output of Bach with his ensemble.


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Day 4. Friday, June 20, 2025.

Side trip to Berlin. 

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We visited Museum Island (managed to tour four of the five major ones), passed by the Reichstag and toured inside the Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral). The organ was astounding!


The Reichstag -  historic legislative government building, seat of the German Bundestag  (lower house).
The Reichstag -  historic legislative government building, seat of the German Bundestag  (lower house).
Berliner Dom - organ in the gallery
Berliner Dom - organ in the gallery

Day 5.  Saturday, June 21, 2025. Bach Museum & Gewundhaus recital.


There were lots of interesting ways which engage the public, especially young people, at the Bach Museum.  It’s also the home of the Bach Archives which researches his music and directs Bachfest. 


At 8 pm, we heard the Hungarian-British virtuoso András shiff at the Leipzig Gewandhaus. He played the entire Well-Tempered Clavier Book Two of Bach - 2 hours and 15 minutes of music.

Bach museum
Bach museum
The man himself!
The man himself!
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The Gewandhaus, Leipzig.


Day 6.  Sunday, June 22, 2025.  Thomaskirche Service.


The Lutheran service was 2.5 hours - organ, choir, orchestra and soloists. Because of my minimal German, I missed that this was a Lutheran Service in the style of services at the time of Bach. I realized that this must be a big deal when the line up started around 9:00 for a 9:30 service.  Notable for me - florid instrumental music but some hymns were sung acapella in harmony. 


The church was full. It was a glorious sound in an historical and sacred space. 


This experience epitomizes context - experiencing Bach’s music in his church in the liturgical setting for which it was written. 


The famous ceiling of Thomaskirche
The famous ceiling of Thomaskirche

This was the last day of Bachfest  and traditionally the complete B Minor Mass is performed at Thomaskirche. I decided to attend the ballet at the Ballet-Opera House. Something different - ballet not usually danced to Bach.  Transformational!


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Day 7.  Monday, June 23, 2025 - Leipzig Zoo


Bachfest ended. We went to the Leipzig Zoo. It’s rated 2nd best in Europe. This was a beautiful day - the venue certainly is doing its best to keep the animals and the admirers (humans) comfortable in high heat.  The giraffes and elephants were my favorite. 


Leipzig Conservatory - happened to walk by here enroute to the zoo - had to take a peak. 
Leipzig Conservatory - happened to walk by here enroute to the zoo - had to take a peak. 
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Canal Boat ride at the Zoo
Canal Boat ride at the Zoo

Day 8.  Tuesday, June 24, 2025.

Munich.  Marienplatz and Alte Pinakothek (Art Gallery).


These two sites alone were worth the trip. Marienplatz is a city centre with churches on the perimeter and a famous Town Hall. Tourists abound with street music; tons of activity and outdoor cafes. (We almost bought a cuckoo clock.). 


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Day 9 - Final Day.  Wednesday, June 25, 2025. 

Munich & Dachau.


We were honored to visit the Memorial Site at Dachau, a short train ride from downtown Munich.  It was a powerful experience. All German youth over the age of 14 are required to visit one concentration camp before completing school. There were numerous school groups visiting with their teachers and guides. 


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"Arbeit Macht Frei" (work makes you free)
"Arbeit Macht Frei" (work makes you free)

We toured for a few more hours back in Munich before the flight home the next day. Our last meal was at the historic Ratskeller restaurant.


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I am so thankful for our trip. More stories and reflections to come. Stay tuned.


Sean Michael

 
 
 

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